Deportation Vacation 2K11: Bangkok

Get ready for a long post…(with pictures to come)

To avoid traveling completely alone, I joined Shannon, a girl from my office, for part of my preemptive deportation. We arrived in Bangkok on Friday night after an easy flight. We successfully navigated the Bangkok sky train and made it to our hotel in record time with no help from a tuk tuk or taxi. We quickly set out looking for something to eat with high expectations of delicious Thai food actually found in Thailand. What we found, however, was a Mexican restaurant. After four months without any decent Mexican food, the idea of passing up this luxury was too much for my traveling companion, Shannon, to pass up. Obviously I did not mind in the slightest. It was no Qdoba, but was a delicious break from Asian food nonetheless.

Saturday morning I awoke ready to seize the day and aimed to experience a mixture of tourist sights and some authentic parts of Thai life. Shannon, her aunt, and I began at the Royal Palace- it was absolutely spectacular.

The entire palace was covered in gold and was bedazzled from the floor to the ceiling. The pictures cannot do it justice in the least. Sadly, we were not able to see the famous thrown room since it was closed on Saturdays, but luckily I will be able to return at some time in the next 6 months when visitors come to the region (hint hint…). However, we were able to see both the Emerald Buddha and the Reclining Buddha.
The Emerald Buddha was perched on top of a very large set of steps, covered in gold and jewels of course. We could not really see the Emerald itself as he was covered in some sort of shawl/throw. They change his clothes based on the season. Very stylish, but sadly hindered us from seeing anything except for his face.
Next came the Recling Buddha- which was massive. It was actually beyond massive and would fall into the category of gianormous. Also completely gold.

After lunch at a small Thai restaurant, I separated from Shannon and her aunt and opted to go to the Chatanuk market, one of the largest open air markets in Asia. I became lost almost immediately upon entering and enjoyed meandering around for about two hours until I finally made it out the other side. The market sold everything; puppies, kittens, pillows, tourist trinkets, bowls, pots…everything. Different music was playing at each stall, ranging from what I think was authentic Thai music to at least 5 Taylor Swift songs, to even hearing “No Hands,” by a one Waka Flacka (yes Senorita Derry, its true). The music was made for an interesting combination of familiar and very unfamiliar.

I ended the day by sitting in a beautiful park eating fresh papaya while trying to figure out exactly how to return to the sky train to make my way back to the hotel. I am very proud to say that I made it back using the sky train. The outfits in Bangkok are a mix of Japanese and Western styles- very...interesting. Lots of brand names. Lots of hair gel. And a lot of man purses.

Sunday, Shannon and I gave in to our nostalgia for anything Western and found a starbucks, sat and read for a little while discussing how to conquer the infamous western style mall. Though the grocery store proved to be a little disappointing without Quinoa (which had been promised to us by other friends), but was still exciting to see brands we recognized.

All in all, it was not a bad way to spend my deportation vacation. It was the perfect mix of tourism and an escape from Phnom Penh. My visa seemed to go through this time around, but I will say that if they somehow messed it up, I would not object to a deportation vacation part deux.

Work has indeed begun and my life has settled into a comfortable routine of working, running, studying…sounds a little like life back in CT, doesn’t it? The major difference is that I have been politely asked to leave the country before January 30th. Yes friends, I am being deported. Luckily it is just for a “visa run,” meaning that I simply need to exit the country and re-enter using the correct visa. Despite the simplicity of this, I obviously prefer to use the term deportation. The way this happened was that I flew into Siem Reap (the second largest city and the home to the magnificent Angkor Wat) instead of the capitol of Phnom Penh. Apparently in order to have a work visa you must fly into Phnom Penh to get the correct signature. Needless to say, it has ended up being an excellent excuse to head to a weekend adventure!

This weekend I will be using this excuse of having to leave to spend a weekend in Bangkok. Though it sounded like a bit of a pain to have to turn life around and leave my new home so soon, stepping back and looking at the situation made me laugh: poor me having to go to Bangkok for the weekend! I will update with my actual activities, but my plans include seeing the royal palace, exploring their weekend market, and perhaps even getting to see a movie!

Life here in Cambodia is surprisingly similar to life at home, with a few key differences- its very same same but different. I still enjoy coconut water on occasion, but this time from an actual coconut bought from the very nice old gentleman who rides his moto around with coconuts for sale on the back. He will usually cut one off with his machete and even put a nice place in the side to hold your straw.

I have also gotten to know my neighbors a little and made a few friends.

Work is challenging but really affirming my decision to become a lawyer. Unlike most people who look at lawyers with distaste and think they are boring and very type-A, I cannot wait to join the legal profession. The pace and work environment is fast, efficient, and all in all right up my alley. Though I loved teaching for a year, this really does feel more like the right profession for me- much less fingerpaint and no bulletin boards.
Life on the other side of the world is indeed coming together. I have started riding a bike around to try to adjust to traffic and have even tried driving a moto! There were no crashes, and only a few screams (mostly from me when the moto actually started moving). My plan is to continue my biking adventures for the next month or so before investing in a moto, or not. The traffic at rush hour is no easy feat and I am in no rush to be navigating that.

Life in Phnom Penh

The wedding was a success and a great way to get to know my co-workers in the office as well as learn more about the Khmer culture. I have never seen so many sequins and fake diamonds in my life. To try to fit in I got my hair done at the market where for $2 they crimped, teased, then bobby pinned back into an up-do. Unless you’ve done it, I’m not sure you can fully appreciate what it means to have your hair teased for 20 minutes. We’re talking BIG hair until they pinned it back. Then from the front it looked semi-normal and from the back it looked like a cinnabon .    

 I was one of maybe 10 non-Khmer. The sister of the groom had 6 dress changes. The food included 7 courses ranging from pig stomach to cashews to cake. And I must say, the cake was good! It came from Bloom, another social enterprise that works with girls who have been trafficked- an IJM partner. As you can see from the picture below, it was truly an event (complete with a heart shaped wreath of flowers as an entrance!)

Following the wedding was my first full week of work and with the first full week behind me, I can say I finally do feel settled. The roosters still greet me every morning at 4:45, but my schedule is more set and a schedule is very comforting for a type-a person like me. My apartment is still wonderful and bright and feeling a little like a home away from home! My guard elephant in front of my apartment makes me feel very safe (pictures to come).

I am hoping to begin Khmai lessons next week, as communication is difficult and frustrating for all parties involved. Though my office work is all conducted in English, it would be helpful to learn some basic Khmai phrases for my daily life outside the office. I have, however, become an expert with directing moto drivers. To clarify how one travels on a moto, essentially a man on a motorcycle/motodope will pull up next to you as you're walking down the street and ask if you'd like a ride ("hey lady lady moto? moto?"). If you do, you say yes (ja for women, baat for men) and then negotiate an appropriate price (usually up to $1-2) and then hop on and off you go to wherever you need to go! 

Cheap, easy, and efficient (relatively efficient). Most people here have their own moto but I am easing into it by getting a bicycle. Much more my style. 

My New Home

Today marks five days in Phnom Penh. Five very busy days in which I which I found an apartment, moved into an apartment, decorated an apartment, found a tuk tuk driver who has acted as my own personal driver around the city, explored two markets and two supermarkets, met up with many wonderful IJM staff, been invited to a wedding, become a regular at a social enterprise coffee shop benefitting victims of trafficking (they give me free cookies!) and finally learned how to sleep through the 4:45AM rooster crow wake up call outside my apartment.

My apartment is by no means in the boonies, but is in the heart (or around the heart) of Phnom Penh. Yet, there are still roosters that inexplicably begin crowing before the sun rises, and keep crowing until noon. Their enthusiasm to greet the day is matched by my desire to go out and buy a slingshot to do some target practice. That said, my new home is bright, airy, and is beginning to feel like my own. It even has a large wooden elephant next to the front door which acts has my own guard elephant. 

All in all, so far so good! I had a day of frustration on Thursday due to communications issues. Setting up internet in the US is difficult enough, setting up internet in Cambodia using broken Khmer with someone who speaks broken English was a rough combination and ended as a complete failure. Learning a language that has completely different characters and sounds that you really don’t think you can make is not only difficult, but at this point in my adventure is on the border of impossible and just not happening. No harm in trying, and I’m looking forward to my Khmer lessons beginning in the next two weeks.

The coffee shop I mentioned, Sugar and Spice is a part of "Daughters of Cambodia," a social enterprise NGO that works with girls who have been rescued out of sex slavery. The organization empowers the women through providing them with job training and medical services. 75% show increased psychological, physical, and social quality of life and 98% do not return to the commercial sex industry. The social enterprise includes a coffee shop, a retail store, and a nail salon- all of which I have sampled, in the name of supporting the organization of course.

The wedding I am attending this afternoon promises to be a high point of my trip here. In Cambodia, weddings are huge! As in, invite everyone you know- and then tell them to invite everyone they know. The women get dresses handmade, get their hair done in the market (updos to the max), get their make up done- everything. Modesty is out the window and strapless dresses are encouraged while they are usually shunned in day to day wear. My co-workers have informed me to imagine 80s prom dresses or bridesmaid dresses…and that’s only what the guests wear. The bridal party itself usually has multiple costume changes. Since I only received my invitation on Tuesday I did not have time to figure out how to get one of these dress made, but I have been talked into heading to the market this afternoon to get an updo. Pictures will follow since I am sure it will be a sight to see.

Homesickness has not yet set in, but emails or plans to visit are encouraged! 

Siem Reap

Back in Siem Reap in not only the same guesthouse I lived in, but the same room! After three and a half years, the town has changed quite a bit (the alligator farm is still behind the guesthouse. Makes for an interesting view).

Exploring the temples, however, was pretty much the same. A little more crowded, but the Angkor Wat was just as impressive as it was a few years ago. The size is enormous and intricate engravings cover every inch of it. After two days of temples we visited the fishing villages- which are all houses on stilts to prepare for the rainy season when the Tonle Sap lake grows to cover all the land. The trip also included an elephant ride which was a favorite of mine. I absolutely love elephants.

The Flynns left today leaving me here for my adventure. I head to Phnom Penh in the morning to begin my hunt for an apartment and then start work the week later. For those who are shakey on the details, I will be working for the International Justice Mission for seven months starting next week (and for those of you who might zone out when I talk about the organization...) IJM a US based non-profit that works with victims of violent oppression in over 13 countries around the world. Their casework varies from country to country, but the Cambodia office works with human trafficking, mostly with minors. The unusual thing about IJM that sets it apart from other NGOs working on the issue is their approach to the issue. They call it a 'fourfold purpose' as they go after the issue in 4 ways. The first is victim relief: getting the girls out of the brothel through collaboration with the local police, often ending in raids on the brothels to rescue the girls. The second is victim aftercare: providing care and rehabilitation for these girls who have been abused in the most horrific manner, often beaten and raped for profit daily. The third is perpetrator accountability: using the existing legal structures in the country to bring the perpetrator through the legal system and ultimately putting them away. The fourth is structural transformation: a combination of training Cambodian police, investigators, and law enforcement to bolster the existing legal structures. Combined, IJM seeks to create a system where the risk will outweigh the benefit of trafficking. The economic benefit of selling a girl will be deterred by the risk of being arrested and put in jail.
  

IJM has been extremely successful around the world (aiding in reducing the existence of trafficking by 70% in one city in Southeast Asia) and I am looking forward to being able to continue working with them. After working at the office in DC this summer I’m very interested to see how the field office functions differently and see the work the organization does firsthand. For someone who has been interested in the issue for a number of years, it’s a once in a lifetime opportunity to be able to work in the field in such a highly successful NGO. Let’s be honest, when you think of NGO you usually think of bergenstocks, granola, veganism and sitting around talking about how everyone should just love each other. Though I do love a good conversation about peace and love, I am confident in saying that IJM offers a much more professional and efficient environment.